Seam.



No. 883,615. y PTENTED MAR. 3l, 1908. S. BURTON 6: L. D. BIRGE.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

r 4 l K 1 @Wllvr Y Avi - I NVENTORS.

SBAM. APPLICATION FILED .TUNE 2, 1906. A RBNEWBD NOV. 23. 1907.

@QQ/K PATENTED u1211111 31, 1908. s. 50111011 @z L. D. 313GB.

SRAM. APPLIOATION FILED JUNE 2. 190s. Rmmwmn 11011.23. 1907.-

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

, WITNES s.

UNrrnn srnrns PAEENT OFFICE..-

s'rooxroivfnon oNjiiNngLLnwnLLYN D. BIRGE, or PROVIDENCE; RHODE ISLAND, AssIGN- f ons, Bjr DInndrnNDji/Insnn AssIGNMENTs'rO' wILLoox a GIBBs SEWING MACHINE OOMPANY;or'NEw-Yonn, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

. sE'AM.

iraseeiciep '1 applicati@ inea Jun@ 2, reos, serial No. 319,959.

capable ofbeing made by a single operation ofi a suitable machine, which will securely join two abutting edges of cut-knit goods, cover and secure the thread ends of the rough raw edges, thereby preventing said thread.

ends vfrom sticking up and inarri'ng the smoothness, appearance' and .Finish o: the seamj A seam accomplishing these objects is described andi generically claimed in an application filed March 9, 1906, Serial No. 515,140, by Stockton Borton, one of the oint inventors of the seam described and clalmed herein, theV latter being a species of the generic invention of the aforesaid application.

The improvements constituting the present invention may be most readily described- `In conjunction with the accompanying drawings, illustrating several embodiments there of, and wherein, Figures 1 and 2 are plan views on opposite sides, respectively, showing on an enlarged scale two abutting edges of fabric or cut-knit goods. joined by a seam; Fig. 3 is a side elevation from the right of Fig. 2, with Athe goods in section; Fig. 4 is an end view,

partly in section, looking from the lower end of Fig. 2; Figs. 5, 7 and 8 are viewssimilar to Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 1, respectively, showing another embodiment of the invention.

Assuming the `seam of Figs. 1 to 4 to beA formed in a suitable machine in which the needles operate from above to form lines of both single-thread chain-stitches and twothread chain stitches, Fig. 1 shows the upper side and Fig. 2 the lower side of the seam as formed. onv the goods in passing through the' machine; for convenience, they will-be vreferred to in the description which follows as the upper and lowerf sides of the seam. The seam may, however, be formed in. amachinein which' thenecdles operate from be- Specfcaton 'of 'Letters Iatent.

Patented March 31, 1908 Renewed November 23, 1907. Serial 110,403,540.

low, in which case the 'relation` of the sildes would be reversed. The seam may also be -so formed that either ptits sides, but dpreferably the side-formed by the needle an crossthreads, appear on the ri-ght o r outer side of "se goods when in use. f i

'3 and 9 are two pieces of fabric, such for example as cut-knit goods, the opposing or abutting edges of which are `broughttogether along the line 30. The seam -is formed of seven threads, namely, the four needlethreads 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the up er side, loo of these threads being carried) goods to the lower side; a crossthread 7 on the upper side; and finally, two hookthreads 5 and 6 on the lowerside.

The-*neethrough t e i die-threads 1:, 2, 3 and 4, togetherfwith 'the two hook-threads 5 and 6, form four parallel Or approximately parallel rows of stitches,

two rows on either side'of the meeting line 30 of the two ed es to be joined. On the Aupper side, Fig. 1, t e'cross-tlnead 7, in running to' the right, always passes beneath four.

stitches (01), c, and d for examp1e)'of the four arallel, lines of stitches, all .of said stitches eing in transverse alinement; in returning, said cross-thread asses beneath the next succeeding stitch e and f, fdr example) inv each of the two parallel lines of stitches in the fabric 8, but beneath the vsame stitches(a and b, for example) infabric'g. It follows that at the outer ed es ofi the upper side of the seam, the cross-.t read 7 forms a succession of loops each (passing through two adj acent stitches, an connecting each end of every stitch to the end of an adj acent stitch.

i 0n the under side, the needle thread 4 forms a' succession of approximately triangularshaped loopt." each loop passing through its preceding loop and to the right around the shank of a loop in needle-thread 3', and so on.

lgjagement with an adjacent line of stitches.

The single needle-thread 4 thus forms chain passing through .4

Also on the under side, the hook-thread 6, A after iassing through a loop ini'the needlelthrea 3, passes around' the shank of the next succeedin loop in thread 3, then to the Vright around tlie shank of a loop in needle- .thread 2, thence backward and upward again through the loop in thread 3 throughA W to the fabric'wit the loop in'hook-thread 6 between it and the loop in needle-thread -1 and of the 'three thread-loops around the shank ofthe loo in the needle-thread 2, the loop, in needle-tlreadl lies next to the fabric, while the loop in hook-thread 5 lies be- 25. tween it and the loop vin hook-thread 6. These'loops may assume this or any other relative arrangement, according to the manner of. operation of the mechanism used in the formation thereof.

3o. In the embodiment of the invention shown v in Figs-5to 8,15 and 16 are vthe two pieces of fabric, the opposing or abutting edges of which 'are broughttogether along the line 31. V The seam in this instance is' formedI of five 1,as threads, namely, the four needle-threads 10,

11', 12 and 13 on the upper side, loops of these threads being carried through the goods "to the lower side and a cross-thread 14 onv the up er side. -The needle-threads 10, .11, 12 lan mately parallelrows of single-thread 4chainstitches, two rows on either side of the meeting -line 31 of the two edges to be joined. On the upper side (Fig. 5) the cross-thread 14 .i5v is arranged in the same` manner as already explained with reference lto'cross-thread 7 of Fig. 1. 0n the under side, each of the needle threads-10, 11, 12`and 13 forms a succession 'of Aapproximately triangular-shaped loops, eachfloop passing through its preceding loop and to one side around the shank of a loop in the adjacent .line of stitches. .As shown in Fig. 6, the triangular-shaped loo s of the needle-thread 13 extend4 to the ri i the shank of similar loops in t e needlethread 12. 'The triangular-shapedv loopsol needle-thread 1-2 pass to the right around the shanks of similar loops in the needle-thread 11. The triangular-sha ed loops of` needle- Cri so thread 10 pass to the le t around the Shanks ofsimilar loops in needle-thread 11.;v and 4 the triangular-shaped loo sof-needle-thread 11 pass to the left aroun the shanks of the similar loopsinneedle-thread 12.- `As shown 6.5 in' of the three needle-thread. loops 13 form fourfparallel or approxi-` t around -thread .11, the loop in needle-thread 10y lies next to the fabric, with tlievloop in needlethread 11 between it and the loop in needlethread 12. any other' relative arrangement, according to the manner of operation of the mechanism used in the formation thereof.

' Inthe seam or seams form laf .above explained; the two 4inside parallel lines of .8g

stitchesmay, without danger of being pulled out, be placed very near the abutting edges of the two pieces of goods, as the outer parallel rows of stitches takea wide hold on the goods, and are principally relied uponto resist transverse strain or ull tendingto sep- 4 arate the joined edges. z he cross-thread on one side, and the crossing of the needle and hook threads on .the other side (as in Figs. 1 -4) or the crossing of the needle-threads 90 only on said other side (as in Figs. 5-8) binds together the 'four parallel rows of stitches, and therefore distributes and equalizes all strain or pull tending to separate the connected edges. Furthermore, the disposition of the threads, and' particularly the crossing of said threads, gives advantageous elasticity to the seam. The crossing Aof threads twice across the line of abutment for each stitch, vaffords a double 4covering of 100 cross-threads at thefmiddle ofthe seam where they are most needed to catch, hold down and confine projecting thread-ends, when the same is employed to connect two edges of the cut-knit good-s; edges of the seam only one of the needle-k threads is crossed between the parallel rows of stitches, thus making the seam light and thin at these portions.

W'hat we claim is:

1L In a seam, the combination with fabric of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, the stitches of one or more ofsaid lines being formed of a single thread, a thread of some of the lines of stitches crossing.

,at intervals to-an adjacent line ofstitches,v

and'passing around the thread thereof, therevby interconnecting on one side of the goods the two inside lines of stitches and each outside lineI of stitches with its adjacent inside line of stitches. j

. 2.,-In a' seam, the combination with -fabric, 'of four'approximately parallel lines of stitches the two voutside lines thereof being single-thread chain stitches, 'some of the 125 stitch forming threads crossin at intervals on one and the same side of the abric each to an ad'acent -line of stitches and passing aroun the' thread thereof, thereby intercon-M. necting the' two. inside linesv of stitches and' 130 These loops may assume this or 75 i At the outer 105 thereln, sai crossin of lthreads being all, on

' esagera the combination With fab-` ric, of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, one orl more lines thereof being single-thread chain-stitches, some of the threads at each stitch crossing to adjacent lines of-stitches andpassing around Shanks of loops thereof, ,thereby interconnecting all four lines of stitches, said crossing of threads being all on the same side ofthe fabric.

4. 'In a seam,` the combination with fabric,y of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, the outside linesthereof being single-thread chain-stitches, the loo s of the latter crossingto the'adjacentinsi .e line of stitchesi'an'd vpassing around the shanks of loops thereof, and a thread of one inside line crossing at intervals to the other inside line and v.passi around the Shanks of loops the same side' of the fabric. u

5.111 avseam, the combination Withffab- --ric,- of/four approximately parallellnes of stitohes, the outside lines thereof being single-thread vchain-stitches the loops of the latter crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line vof stitches and passing around the Shanks of loops thereof, and a thread ofone inside line crossing at each stitch to the other inside line and passing around the shanks of loopsl thereof, said crossing of threads being all on the same side of the fabric.

6. Inv a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, the outside lines thereof being single-thread chain-stitches, the Vloops of the f latter crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the shanks of loops thereof, and a thread of each inside line crossing at each stitch to the other inside line and passing around the Shanks of loops thereof, said crossing of threads being all on the same side of the fabric.

7. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four a proximately parallel lines of singlethread c ain-stitches, the loops of each outside line of stitches crossing to adjacent in side lines of stitches and passing around the Shanks of the loops thereof, and the loops of one inside line crossing to the other inside line and passing around the Shanks of the loops of the latter.

8. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of singlethread chainstitch-es, the loops of each outv ,side line of stitches crossing to adjacent inside lines of stitches and passing around the Shanks of the loops thereof, and the loops of each inside line crossing to the other inside line and passing around the Shanks of the loo s of the latter. l

n testimony whereof We have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

s'rocrrroN BoRfroN. LLEWELLYN D. BIRGE. p

Witnesses:

f RALPH H. CHAPMAN,-

A. H. MACOMBER. 

